Jewelry & Watches

When considering the purchase of diamond jewelry, it is wise to understand the differences between a laboratory produced gem and a natural stone.

In the past, man-made diamonds were considered to be of inferior quality. Synthetic stones, often known as cubic zirconia, were frequently maligned by the jewelry industry. However, the latest technology allows scientists to produce gem-quality synthetics in laboratories across the country. Instead of taking millions of years, a lab produced gem may be created in a matter of days. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the leading research and grading body in gemology, legitimizes some of these lab grown stones as real diamonds.

There are two basic ways that man-made gems are created. HPHT (high pressure high temperature) is a process that has been used for several decades. While this method does simulate the natural way that mother earth makes these precious stones, and physically, visually, and chemically they are almost exactly the same as those found in the earth, these synthetic stones can be identified by a trained gemologist using standard gem-testing equipment.

Chemical Vapor Deposition, or CVD, is a newer process that grows gems at low pressure and relatively low temperatures. The resulting crystals are not merely suitable for faceting for jewelry purposes; they are also “purer” than those grown the HPHT way, and are quite difficult to detect.

Many people purchase created gems in order to save money. However, the amount saved will vary based on the type of stone that is chosen. Color or “fancy” diamonds, which are quite rare in nature, are far more available via lab created gems. While this comparative abundance lowers the price as compared to natural stones, high quality man-made gems are certainly not nearly as inexpensive as cubic zirconia.

Increasingly, environmentalists and advocates of social responsibility are openly declaring a preference for lab produced stones. This is similar to the movement in favor of faux fur over animal hides. Often, it is difficult to know the exact sourcing of a natural stone. This is an issue because gems mined in war zones to raise money for civil wars and terrorism, commonly referred to as “blood diamonds,” comprise up to ten percent of the total supply. Also, mining processes can be extremely damaging to the environment. Purchasing lab cultured stones removes the environmental concerns as well as the war and terrorism concerns, and saves money at the same time.

If the authenticity of a stone is in question, there are some basic methods that can help distinguish natural from created stones. Lower price is one sign, and another is color. Most natural colored diamonds have colors that are less vivid and bright than synthetically produced gems. Also, most natural stones contain small mineral deposits called inclusions. These show up as dark spots under a jeweler’s loupe. While flawless natural stones do exist, they are rare and very expensive. Thus, a lack of inclusions may be a sign that a stone is lab produced, but is not conclusive proof.

If a jeweler is advertising “cultured” gems, they are probably created. As with cultured pearls, this is a code word which means man has interfered with the natural process. Any reputable jeweler will be happy to inform customers as to which pieces contain lab produced stones.

No matter if it is due to the reduced cost, social and environmental concerns, or simply the pleasure of having a vividly colored stone that would otherwise be very difficult to obtain, there are a lot of excellent reasons why an increasing number of individuals are buying and enjoying man-made diamond jewelry.

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